Friday, March 26, 2010

The Never Ending Train #2

March 25, 2010

The train to Aranyaprathet (Thai border of Cambodia) leave from Hua Lamphong station at 5:55 AM, with an estimated arrival time of 11:30.

I was up and at 'em with no problem. Swung by the 7-11 for some snacks and a 2 liter bottle of water for the journey, and made it to Hua Lamphong with plenty of time to spare.

The train cost 48 Baht (about $1.50) and was definitely a no frills trip. All the seats are bench seats offering little comfort for the inevitable naps required to the early start time. There is no AC, there are some fans that help a bit, but all the windows remain open to let in the warm breeze and tons of dirt from the country side. There is also a "kitchen," which comprised of the front few benches of my car. Yum.

I found an open bench and quickly fell asleep, only to be woken up an hour later by two women and child who squeezed in with me. I am certain this was a tactical maneuver to get me to move. I held my ground and went back to sleep, and they continued to surround me the whole trip. Although they spoke no English we had a symbiotic relationship. Across from me was the child and her grandmother. The little girl was about 4 and cycled through naps and hyperactivity. Sleeping she seemed all too cute, but when she woke up she would give me death stared that could break glass. I was able to crack a smile out of her a couple times, but I realized she didn't like me or was afraid of me because I was a farang, when she told her grandmother. The older woman was very smiley and it was fun to watch her play with her granddaughter who was very giggly when not looking at me.

The train stopped at a station at one point and didn't start again for nearly two hours. This gave me time to become extremely impatient and frustrated, as well as giving me time to talk to my new travel buddy Adrien from Scotland. Adrien was a freelance Journalist back in the UK, but is now exploring different ventures and taking a couple weeks mainly in Thailand and Siem Reap. We get along quite well, and it was very nice to have someone to commiserate with, as there were few other westerners on the train.

We finally got to Aranyaprathet at about three in the afternoon, and Adrien and I made our way to the border crossing 15 km away at Poi Pet. We got through customs alright, and smartly avoided scam visa offers.

We got in a taxi to Siem Reap, again avoiding the smooth talkers at the border, and after a couple obligatory stops at his friends stores, we made it to Siem Reap at nearly 6.

The taxi driver didn't know our hotels so he handed us off to his "brother" who drove a Tuk Tuk and knew Siem Reap better. Some arguing and 3 whole dollars later I got to th Siem Riep Hostel, with plans to meet up with Adrien for dinner later on.

The hostel is eight dollars a night (they use dollars here as well as the riel which is pinned on the dollar at 4,000 to $1) and is pretty nice. The atmosphere is very laid back and I have a sneaking suspision that I'm the only person in my 6 bed dorm. Sweet.

Fighting through exhaustion and hunger (I had eaten nothing but a bag of peanuts at this point) I showered, had a couple Angkor beers (only 75 cents) and checked the internets before I headed out.

After dropping off my laundry next door, I was picked up by a motorbike "taxi' and I surprisingly guided him directly to my meeting point, without knowing its name.

Our meeting spot was a hotel we had seen before, and I ran into our tuk tuk driver, Baran, who told me Adrien's hotel was very far away. I waited awhile, played some pool, and drank some more Angkors with Baran, who is a hilarious guy. He would squeal everytime he made a shot and make fun of me when I missed.

I gave up waiting, said farewell to Baran, and headed to night market. I think I was more stumbling in search of food with my eyes half way open (due to hunger and exhaustion not beer). I found a delicious curry. I ate it in what I suspect was four bites. Then b-lined to hostel where I was asleep probably before laying down.

I didn't get a good grasp on Cambodia today. I had food tunnel vision. Tomorrow is a new day though.

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